Sporcizia
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16-21" wheels, with a wheel hub inner diameter of 20-27mm (extendable to 12-30mm with optional accessories like the 12-18mm Spindle or 28mm Adapter).
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No, it's designed for wire-spoke wheels only. The wheel rests on its spokes during a change; a cast wheel would fall through the supports, and the steel wheel supports could mar cast rim coatings. For a Harley-Davidson or any other cast-wheel bike, use the Street Bike Tyre Changer instead.
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There's some risk, as with any tyre-iron-based change. Rim savers, plastic tyre iron covers or wrapping the irons in tape all help reduce it. Realistically, a dirt bike used for its intended purpose picks up some battle marks over time.
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The teeth are sharp by design so they grip the tyre and don't slide off during the second-bead dismount. Any marks they leave are normally just cosmetic. If you'd prefer, you can grind the teeth down, though this may make second-bead removal harder.
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Yes, as long as the supermoto wheel is wire-spoked rather than cast/alloy.
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The size difference between a 10" and a 21" wheel is too big to serve well with one compact design. A true 2-in-1 ends up not being good enough at either size, so we built the Mini as its own purpose-built tool.
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Not well, in our testing. The cross-spoke geometry combined with a stiff-sidewall tyre made bead breaking unstable. We'd recommend the Street Bike Tyre Changer with the BMW adapter and the Duck Head Kit for Cross-Spoked Rims instead, plus a pair of Drop Center Tools for the hard-carcass tyre.
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Yes, though the technique differs from mousse or air-tube changes. You lift the tyre over the rim edge with tyre irons on one side, then flip the wheel and lift the tyre over the other side. Follow Nuetech's official Tubliss instructions for the actual install; note some of the changer's usual bead-breaker benefits won't apply if you follow their method exactly, since Tubliss recommends dismounting both beads to the outside of the rim.
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14.5kg (32 lbs), excluding the carry bag.
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It comes down to your wheel type. If your wheel is wire-spoked, especially if you're running mousse or Tubliss, the Dirt Bike Tyre Changer is the faster, purpose-built option. If your wheel is cast, forged or you're not sure, use the Street Bike Tyre Changer; running a cast wheel on the Dirt changer's steel wheel supports risks marring the rim and the wheel may not seat properly on the supports at all.
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This is almost always a mousse fit or mounting issue, not the tool. The most common causes: the mousse is undersized for the tyre (swap to the correct size), or a super-soft mousse needs two rim locks and a valve stem to help seat the bead before the rim locks are tightened. When mounting the last section of bead, guide at least a third of it into the drop centre from the opposite side as you go, use plenty of lube and stop immediately if you hear the bead cracking. If a tyre pops off entirely while riding, the bead wire itself is usually damaged, and that tyre shouldn't be reused even after remounting.
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The two front legs fit any Dirt Bike Tyre Changer without modification. The rear leg mounts to the rectangular tube frame used since Gen4 (late 2017 onward); earlier versions have a flat sheet-metal support plate instead, and the Lift Kit's rear leg won't mount to that as-is.
Via
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As long as the wheel is 12-21" in diameter, the tyre is up to 250mm wide and the wheel's centre hub is larger than 15mm (the 15mm Spindle Kit is included for smaller hubs), it will work. We recommend measuring your hub to confirm whether you need any additional adapters.
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15mm: the 15mm Spindle Kit is included in the box.
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Yes. It's designed predominantly for cast wheels but also works on wire-spoked wheels. Instead of the stopper pin, use the included strap through the spokes, positioned right next to the rim. Excessive force can still risk damaging a spoke, so care is needed.
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Yes, with the Duck Head Kit for Cross-Spoked Wheels in addition to the changer, needed because cross-spokes run further out toward the rim edge than standard spokes.
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Yes, with optional adapters. Double-sided swingarms use the included stepped spacer to align the wheel on the centre spindle; single-sided swingarm wheels vary by bike model and need a model-specific adapter.
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It depends on the brake disc. Some solid cast wheels have slots in the disc that let you thread the included strap through to stop rotation during mounting/dismounting (a Harley-Davidson Fat Boy is a good example). If the brake disc has no such slots, it can't be used on that wheel.
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Yes, but only when fitted with the Carbon Fibre Wheel Supports accessory, made specifically to adapt the changer for carbon rims. Extra care is required. We recommend practicing on an alloy rim first before working on carbon fibre.
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Every part that contacts the rim is covered in plastic, but we can't guarantee zero risk. It depends a lot on technique. On our painted demo wheels, we saw the first cosmetic wear marks appear after roughly 150 changes.
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No. Pair it with the Rabaconda Motorcycle Wheel Balancer, which takes just a few minutes per wheel. Balancing beads, Ride-On tyre balancing liquid and Centramatic balancers are other options some riders use.
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Yes, if your dirt bike wheel has a rim lock, take extra care and attention navigating it. That said, the Street changer works on tubes or Tubliss dirt bike tyres, but it does not work on dirt bike tyres with mousse bib inserts because a duck head can't be used to mount or dismount tyres with bib mousse inserts. Use the Dirt Bike Tyre Changer and the Pro Tyre Iron Set instead.
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4-6 changes a day. It takes a bit of practice. Most people have the technique fine-tuned after about 10 changes.
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A bead breaker alone only pushes the tyre off the rim, the hardest part of the job, but it won't mount or dismount the tyre for you. The Street Bike Tyre Changer includes a bead breaker AND the ratcheting duck head system, so it also does the mounting and dismounting. If a listing doesn't mention a duck head or an equivalent mounting system, it's likely bead-breaker-only and you'll still be finishing the job by hand with tyre irons.
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Yes. Install the Tubliss components and slide the tyre onto the rim exactly as shown in Tubliss's official tutorial, then use the duck head wherever their instructions call for tyre irons. Mount each bead in turn, using the included strap (not the metal stopper pin) to hold spoked wheels in place, push the mounted section into the drop centre and use plenty of tyre lube. Take care to position the rim lock correctly and don't force it.
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Not on its own. The smallest hub this changer supports is 15mm, using the included 15mm Spindle Kit. We've tested a 12mm spindle on this changer and it bent under the ratchet system's force, which is why we don't sell one. If your bike has a 10-24mm hub and 10-17" wheels, our Mini Tyre Changer is built for it instead.
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Usually not. The wheel support blocks sit 40mm off the frame, which clears most rotors, sprockets and pulleys. If a sprocket or pulley extends further out than usual and the wheel won't fully rest on the supports, the included Wheel Support Riser Brackets add extra clearance. Only remove the part itself if the wheel still won't seat with the risers fitted.
Mini
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10-17" wheels with a hub inner diameter of 10-24mm. Unlike the Dirt Bike Tyre Changer, it's designed to work with spoked, cast and forged wheels.
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Mostly wheel size range and wheel type: the Mini covers 10-17" wheels (vs. 16-21" for the Dirt changer) and works with cast/forged wheels via plastic wheel support pads, not just spoked wheels. Most of the actual tyre work is still done with tyre irons and the bead breaker, the same way as the Dirt changer.
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No, the wheel supports don't accommodate the larger diameters (the frame is sized to fit the compact carry bag), and the wheel supports are narrower than the Dirt Bike Tyre Changer's.
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There's some risk, as with any tyre-iron-based change on a painted rim. Plastic rim protectors can help reduce it, though some find them a bit fussy to use in practice.
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Yes, the maximum sprocket diameter that clears the wheel supports on a 10" wheel is 200mm, and the standard 49T rear sprocket on the KTM SX-E 5, GasGas MC-E 3/5 and Husqvarna EE 3/5 fits within that.
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Tubeless, air tubes, tyre balls, mousse bibs and Tubliss.
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11kg (24 lbs), excluding the carry bag: the lightest changer in the range.
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One: always work from the front of the tyre changer when mounting a tyre. The manual specifically calls out not to stand at the side of the machine during mounting, unlike some of the other changers.
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Yes. The Mini Tyre Changer covers hub sizes 10-24mm, which includes a Grom's 12mm hub, and wheel sizes 10-17", which covers the Grom's 12" wheels. It's the right tool for these small-hub bikes since the Street and Dirt changers' spindles aren't built for hubs that small.
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Yes. Unlike the Dirt Bike Tyre Changer, the Mini is built to handle spoked, cast and forged wheels in the 10-17" range, so bikes with small cast wheels, like the CBR125R, are a good fit as long as the hub is within 10-24mm.
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The two included spindles (10mm and 15mm) plus the 20mm adapter sleeve cover the full 10-24mm range out of the box, so most riders don't need to buy anything extra. We do recommend picking up bead grease if you don't already have a tyre lubricant on hand.
Wheel Balancer
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No leveling needed. Just adjust the two feet so it sits steady on your bench or wall mount. The shaft has grooves that prevent axial movement, and gravity pulls the heaviest spot down regardless of the angle the balancer is sitting at.
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Shaft diameter is 12mm; the cones have a maximum diameter of 35mm standard. For bigger hubs, the Universal Big Hub Adapter (32-68mm) or BMW Shaft Drive Adapter (62/72mm) extend that range.
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Yes, the Street Bike Tyre Changer's Universal Big Hub Adapter (32-68mm) and BMW Shaft Drive Type Adapter (62/72mm) are both compatible with the Wheel Balancer too.
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Generally no, it's recommended to leave them on. That way the wheel you're balancing matches what it will actually feel like once it's back on the bike and in use.
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No, the balancer ships with a Wheel Weight Remover Knife, but wheel weights themselves are sold separately.
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It's designed as the natural companion to the Street Bike Tyre Changer and also works alongside the Dirt Bike Tyre Changer. It even fits inside the Street Bike Tyre Changer's carry bag if you want to consolidate gear.
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Static: the wheel spins freely on sealed bearings and gravity settles the heavy spot at the bottom of its rotation, which is the standard approach for home and small-shop use.
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Position the wheel supports, standard or Carbon Fibre, all the way out toward the edge of the wheel's diameter, near the tyre, but resting on the wheel itself rather than the tyre. That gives the most accurate read on the wheel's actual balance point.
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Not universally. A small number of BMW hubs, certain F800GT model years among them, are narrower than either adapter is designed for. If an adapter doesn't seat properly on your BMW wheel, contact us with your model and year and we'll help confirm the right fit before you order a replacement part.
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For street and dirt bike wheels at home-mechanic speeds, yes. A static balancer settles the heavy spot accurately using gravity alone, the same principle professional static balancers use trackside. Dynamic (spin) balancing machines are built for high-volume shop use and aren't typically necessary for a home garage.
Generale
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I tempi di spedizione in Europa sono di circa 4-6 giorni. Per gli altri paesi potrebbe essere necessario un po' di tempo in più a seconda della distanza.
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In pratica in qualsiasi paese del mondo. Potete vedere le nostre destinazioni qui.
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Fare clic qui per vedere i nostri prezzi di spedizione.
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Sì, abbiamo prezzi da rivenditore per i clienti commerciali. Contattate il nostro ufficio vendite e inviate i dati della vostra azienda a sales@rabaconda.com.
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Al di fuori delle parti "soggette a usura", tutto ha una garanzia a vita. Le parti soggette a usura comprendono parti come le teste di anatra per lo smontagomme per Moto da Strada e i blocchi di supporto in plastica. Per domande su questo aspetto, contattateci all'indirizzo sales@rabaconda.com.
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